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  • Are your dice balanced?
    No handmade dice are perfectly balanced. I make them with bugs and bones and stuff sometimes too, so no, not 'perfectly' balanced. They are balanced enough to roll with and are usable in your TTRPGs.
  • How do you do that?
    Good question! If you have any questions about any part of my process or how I make a specific dice set then please get in touch. I'll be happy to share my secrets. The dice making community have helped me immeasurably, and I will be happy to spread my knowledge.
  • How much do they cost?
    Sets can vary in price depending on their designs and complexity. A general rule I follow for pricing is as follows for full sets of 7: Colour solid colour/transparent- £60 swirling, smoky second colour - £70 petri second colour- £70 Inclusions mushrooms (seasonal) - £120 insects (seasonal) - £150 bones - £150 butterfly wings -£130 flowers/natural inclusions - £80
  • If I buy raw sets, how do I finish them myself?"
    There's a few steps needed before your dice are finished: Sanding, Polishing, and Inking. Sanding Please use the proper safety equipment when working with resin. Gloves, a respirator mask rated for chemicals, and proper ventilation is necessary as resin dust particles are harmful. Start with 1000 grit sandpaper and use an even amount of pressure in circular motions. Use water. Wet sanding helps minimise dust and makes it easier to clean. Using a completely flat surface, like a glass pane, will help minimise uneven sanding. Polishing Once you've sanded any sprues and edges I recommend using Zona Polishing Papers. Polish through all papers in the order as per the package's instructions. Don’t skip any Use the same motion for sanding, on a flat surface, in circle motions using even pressure. Clean out the sanding dust from the numbers by using a sonic cleaner or by using a very soft bristled tooth brush. The toothbrush must a separate toothbrush and must not be used to clean teeth afterwards as resin is toxic if ingested. Inking I use acrylic paint for the numbers as it dries quickly and can be easily cleaned. using a small paint brush apply the pigment over the whole face of the die, then use your finger or a paper towel to wipe the face. The paint will remain in the number channel. To clean any excess paint use a towel or cotton bud swab. If the paint has dried isopropyl alcohol can remove the paint without harming the plastic of the die For a final shine use a polishing cloth. I use Plastix to give it that extra shine, and voila! Now you have perfect beautiful dice.
  • Why are they priced like that?
    The materials and equipment needed to create dice costs a lot of money. Resin itself needs regular resupplying, as well as the inks, mica powders and other inserts, like glitter and gold-leaf etc. Most of all you're paying for my time. It takes a lot of time and effort to design, pour, cast and polish dice. Not only that but as I hand forage a lot of my inclusions that involves hunting in the woods for beautiful things. They're a bespoke, luxury item, therefore I'm not going to work for less than minimum wage.
  • If I get a commission how long will it take?
    Resin can take up to 5 days to fully cure (harden). Depending on the complexity of the set, repair work, and sanding and polishing time, they can take between 2- 4 weeks.
  • How do I get a commission?
    You just have to ask! Please get in touch with me and I will take you through the commission process, including discussing what you would like, taking references (if you have them) and the price and time scale of production. Further info of my commissions can be found on this Trello Board. The information here may not be 100% up to date, and I will inform you of all details during our communication.
  • Can you make 'this' set?
    I can recreate a past set but there are some caveats to making some sets: Some sets with inclusions may be dependent on availability or are seasonal. Insects, and flowers for instance are more summery items whereas mushrooms and bones are more autumnal. If they're designed or based on a different creator’s dice. I'll not knowingly recreate designs made by another artist. More often than not, yes, I'll recreate a past set, unless they're a unique or special set. I won't recreate any specific commissions I have done for someone else unless they are fairly generic sets. What I consider generic may be sets with inclusions, charms, like ducks or small figurines, insects and mushrooms etc.
  • Why does everything say sold out?
    I'm aiming for store 'drops' which means that I will upload in bulk when I have enough stock available. Some popular or signature sets will have more than one available, but mostly sets will be unique, one time only items. I keep them up as a makeshift archive so you can view the old dice even though they may be gone forever. To keep updated on new stock or when stock will be available I recommend following my Instagram where I am more active.
  • Where did you get your masters?
    My beautiful masters were made by the wonderful They printed the masters and I finished them by polishing them to a mirror shine.
  • Glossary-What does that mean?
    Certain jargon of dice making, here's what I mean when I say: Inclusions- large items you put inside the dice and then cover in resin. I usually exclude glitter or ink from this definition. Inclusions can be flowers, charms, insects, fungi etc. Face- the flat surface of the die showing the numbers Die- one single unit. Die is the singular, dice is the plural. Inking- Painting the numbers of the dice. Sanding/polishing- The process of removing sprues, flashing, flaws from the dice. This involves sanding paper, polishing paper, polishing products and more. Sprue- a channel on the mould where resin is poured. This cures and needs to be cut off. A sprue mark is a mark left behind from cutting off the sprue and needs sanding off. Casting- mixing and pouring the resin to make the dice ready for curing. Curing- the chemical reaction in the resin in which they harden over a period of 48 hours, and fully hardened after roughly 5 days. Moulding/demoulding- removing cured dice from their moulds, usually after 24 hours. Flush- when a face of the dice is perfectly flat against a surface. Flaws, sprues and inclusions that have poked outside the face means a face will not be flush against a surface. Flashing- extra resin around the edges of a die face, needing removal by cutting, peeling or sanding. Charms- small figurines or items like ducks, bees, swords, plastic flowers etc. Colour shift- where light catches the pigment in different ways when you turn them. A blue/green colour shift will look blue or green depending on which way you turn the die. Holographic – glitter or cellophane with a holographic sheen will sparkle in different colours when you turn the die.
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